Vermont-Style Baked Beans

1 lb. Maine yellow-eye beans [or navy beans]
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 medium onion
1 bay leaf
1 clove
1/2 lb. cob-smoked bacon, divided
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 T. dry mustard
1/4 cup maple syrup (or to taste)
1 tsp. salt
2-3 T. sweet mustard
1-2 T. cider vinegar (or to taste)

Pick over beans; discard debris. Soak overnight in fresh water, just enough to cover. The next day, discard the water; cover beans with fresh water and bring them to a rapid boil for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Add baking soda and stir well. Drain beans, reserving the liquid.

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Peel onion, and pin bay leaf to it with clove; set aside. Leave 6 bacon strips whole; cut the rest into half-inch pieces. Line the bottom of a 3-quart bean pot (or Dutch oven) with 3 bacon strips.

In a medium-size bowl, combine beans, bacon pieces, pepper, dry mustard, maple syrup, and salt. Spoon mixture into pot and nestle onion in the center. Arrange remaining bacon strips on top. Add enough reserved liquid to cover beans, and cover the pot with the lid. Cook 4 to 5 hours or until beans are tender and flavorful. If beans start to dry out, add more reserved liquid. Leave the pot uncovered for the last half-hour or so to let beans brown.

Just before serving, mix sweet mustard and vinegar and stir into beans. Adjust seasoning, adding salt, maple syrup, mustard, or vinegar to taste. Beans should be a little sweet, a little spicy, and well seasoned.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

From Yankee magazine, Sept./Oct. 2010, p. 80-81.